KiKu Japanese Steak House and Sushi.

190 Pavilion Parkway, Fayetteville.
770-716-5959

By Rochelle Carter / rcarter@ajc.com

FINDING MEAL OPTIONS THAT DON'T INVOLVE FAST FOOD in Fayette Pavilion between Ga. 85 and Ga. 314 is a challenge. So we were thrilled to stumble upon KiKu, which opened in June, located near the rear of this big-box shopping emporium. Think Benihana; This restaurant brings an exotic combination of hibachi meals, sushi and Japanese fare to Fayetteville.

THE MENU: Traditional Japanese steakhouse. KiKu's offerings are served with entertaining fanfare at the hibachi grill. Its sushi bar puts a slightly down-home spin on conventional raw-fish servings with the use of hot sauce and deep-fried foods. We tried the Dynamite, Fayetteville, spicy baby lobster, and spicy tuna hand rolls from the sushi bar and the steak and salmon combination hibachi dinner. Taku su broiled octopus and cucumber appetizer, and tempura ice cream rounded out the meal.

WHAT WORKS: The sushi chefs are creative, while the hibachi chefs keep children and adults equally entertained with flying fish parts, deft knife skills and flames. This spicy sauce, a combination of cayenne pepper sauce and mayonnaise, that adoms some of the dishes is like Japanese-style hot sauce. Many sushi offerings are filled with cooked fish, allowing for several options for the squeamish. The steak cuts served at the hibachi were tender and well seasoned. The Fayetteville Roll, a tempura-fried sushi roll filled with salmon, avocado, sour cream, lobster and eel will remind locals of the deep-fried foods we all love because of its crunchy exterior.

WHAT DOESN'T: The broiled octopus in the tako su was bland for our tastes.

STOP, DROP AND ROLL: The kerosene-fueled flames are just plain frightening, the heat from the flames at one table could be felt on the backs of the patrons at another table.

SECOND, PLEASE: The tempura ice cream - a Japanese version of Mexican fried vanilla ice cream topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce - was a wonderful combination of hot, cold and creamy.

IF YOU MUST: The special on the night we visited was live scallop sushi, a scallop plucked from its shell, sliced and placed on rice.  The thought was more exciting than the reality - although the sushi was really fresh.